Osteria Candalla On The Liguria Tuscany Border

A former mill, this restaurant is at the end of a long track marked by a giant fork sculpture. You'll need to book at the weekends as it is a very popular spot. The food is excellent, the pasta all homemade and second courses such as rabbit in a prune sauce are more inspiring and original than many traditional Italian eateries. After dinner, you can go down to the river and chill in deck chairs listening to the tinkling of the waterfalls.

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